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When assembling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. But, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the owners completely shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their small shop securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary honour.